Cairngorm 2. (Just when you thought it was safe)
Yes, it was cold last night, in the coldest village in Scotland. I really had to get my string pulling right but my sleeping bag did well. Getting up was another matter. Getting up and pulling on freezing cycling clothes required some discipline. I made tea and porridge knowing it was 30 miles before any sort of shop and the first thing in front of me was the Druimuachdar pass. I set off at 7am. Everything was deserted. Not that there was much to desert, I suppose. The climb up the pass was relentless but ok. Not steep and a fantastic cycle path. I stopped when I spotted a stream as I was out of water and thirsty. I knew I wouldn't see a tap for a while. As I added my water purification tablets, I couldn't help feeling that I was simply polluting what was probably beautiful, fresh water. I took a gulp and gasped. It felt like it was just above freezing. When I woke up this morning, it was 2° after all.
The road reached a plateau and rolled on along the top for quite a while before starting to descend. It then descended for 16 miles. I needed my winter cycling tights winter top, coat, overshoes, two pairs of gloves, neck tube, hat and ear band on. And then I was fine!
Pitlochry was 30 miles off and I knew it to be a flesh pot, as we dropped in on our way back from John O groats. I had assumed that was my first sign of life but I cycled through a place called Atholl which boasted not only a magnificent castle but a 'nisa' corner shop as well! I bought some flapjack and a mars bar. The mars bar was so expensive I'm not going to say how much it was in case Kate reads this...
After many more remote miles, I arrived at Pitlochry fully hoping to go to the well known Hetties coffee shop. It didn’t open until 11 and it was only 10am😒 I chose another one and saw that you had to wait for someone to take you to your seat. Alarm bells rang. I hoofed it and found a more modest establishment. Unfortunately, it was a little too modest. (Or not modest enough?) Coffee, not great, no salt in the scone and rather dour service. I left Pitlochry disappointed. I opted for the next village but the cycle network route I was on had other ideas. After much upping and downing I arrived at Dunkeld. Rather an attractive little village. A bakery. I entered and as I queued, I looked at the sandwich fillings. Kimchi, Cale, Quinoa and loads of other things beginning with a 'c' sound. My knees started to go from under me. I lost my nerve and bolted. Straight across the road to another bakery. Whacking great cheese and pickle sarnies. That's more like it.
I took my whacking great cheese and pickle sarnie to a little square. (Triangle really, rather like Times Triangle in New York) and plonked myself down at the opening to a little shed with an open side as rain was never completely off the menu. It turned out to be a place to put unwanted food for those who might need it. Like a food bank. I didn't know until a young woman approached rather sheepishly and peeped inside the boxes to see that they were empty. I think we were both embarrassed. Food banks were started by one church for the area round that church and now they are seen as standard....
I pressed on, determined to make it to Perth. I had noticed a very small but quite persistent click coming from the bottom bracket area of my bike and when I arrived at Perth, I looked up bike shops, just in case. There was one 50 yards from where I was standing! There are only two in the whole city and this is the one I would have chosen anyway. A guy came straight out, looked at it, rode it round then said there's nothing worry about. Of course, with that much weight.... he left that sentence there.
So to a campsite. The one I found was a solid 3 mile climb up Gallows Hill. It was camping and glamping. Hence the piped music in the loos. This is the second campsite I've been to with piped music in the loos in a few days. I'm not saying anything...
Having a loo was a nice change anyway.
Wow, well done you so far, you’re definitely cracking on even if the weather hasn’t been that great. Hope the Mars bar tasted good! 😄 Guessing to have it deep fried would have been even more astronomical 🤣. Just out of interest what tune was the ‘piped’ music in the loo? Thank goodness it wasn’t the Lone Piper at the door!!
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