Boaties and ferries

June 16, 2026

A slightly odd night as I slept with my head at the foot of the tent. The wind demanded that the tent be pitched that way round but the slope demanded that I lay the other way round. Still, it worked and I slept. My nights have been pretty good. This is no doubt, partly due to fatigue but also because of my wonderful air bed! It folds up to the size of a small loaf of bread but inflates to a thickness of 10cms. It makes camping possible for someone of my age. (And weirdness, as that bird claimed a few days ago...)

I had no definite plans for a nights stop today. I usually have some idea of a campsite on the morning of that day. I just decided to cycle south and see where I ended up. The day was blessedly short of tracks but big on hills. Hills kill a heavy bike dead, rather like a tandem does. I find myself in bottom gear with depressing frequency.

After a long time with no shops and no opportunity for refreshment therefore, I arrived near Craster. I made the decision to take a detour into Craster in search of coffee and a bite. An action which my sat nav complained about bitterly. In the end, I turned it off to avoid it having digital apoplexy or something. I left my bike on the pavement. Half way through my scone, I had to move it because the local bus needed every inch of it's turning circle to make the corner.

When I woke up this morning, the cycle camper next to me was already setting off, so I was amused to see him in front of me a few hours later. I came along side him. He was a young man with Mediterranean features. I asked him where he was going. Portugal, he replied. That's a long trip and if today's speed is typical for him, it will take a long time!

We were both then stopped by a level crossing where I watched the same train hurtle by which had taken me to Inverness a week earlier. I was approaching the Tyne and Wear area and the first sign of more built up areas was the little town of Amble. My stomach put forward the idea of lunch so I stopped for fish and chips and had them on the sea front. Two lots of fish and chips within a week! They're usually an annual event.

The area after this was a mixture of sea front, built up areas and boat yards. I went past one called Boaty. I wonder if this is where they constructed the mini sub, Boaty Mc Boat Face, which lives on board the Sir David Attenborough?

I had done about 70 miles when I arrived at Whiteley Bay. I still had no idea where to stay and there were no campsites nearby. I stopped for refreshments at a café. It was run by a lovely young couple. They wanted to know all about my trip. When I told them I didn't know where I was going to sleep that night, they were most concerned.

I left feeling better. It's amazing what tea and sympathy can do.

However, I had to make a decision. After much thought, I pressed on. The first campsite was 25 miles further fown the coast. I tried not to think about it. I knew I had to cross the Tyne. I assumed this would be by bridge but my sat nav lead me to a ferry. While I was wondering whether to take it, a woman came up to me and thrust a day pass into my hand saying she didn't need it anymore. So I found myself on the ferry. It was getting cold. Whilst on the ferry, I slid my 'leggies' on. An action which caused amusement to a couple of elderly ladies sitting opposite.

On the other side was Sunderland. It was getting dark as well as cold as the sun had retreated behind a thick bank of cloud. The streets were emptying of shoppers and a hint of night life was beginning. I went past some youths who were talking about knifing someone in the neck. My legs were tired by now but I seemed to find a new burst of energy at this point.

Eventually, I set my phone on the handlebars and Google talked me to the campsite. Up hill as always. In fact, so up hill that this particular site was nestled snugly amidst wind turbines. They were all round the site. I'm just amazed I didn't hear them. One of the good things about leaving my hearing aids at home...

The campsite cost a tenner. That's more like it. Couple of loos, shower in a shed and a tap.

That was all the amenities I needed. I had cycled 95 miles and was pooped.